Everything You’ll Need

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Step 1: Prepare the Space

Take Off Baseboards and Old Flooring

First, remove any old flooring and baseboards to see the subfloor. This gives a clean surface and allows for the hardwood to expand at the edges.

Use a pry bar to carefully lift baseboards without damaging the wall so you can put them back later. Remove any old flooring and make sure all glue or staples are scraped off.

Clean and Make the Subfloor Even

Sweep and vacuum the subfloor to get rid of dust, nails, and glue. Check for dips or bumps with a straight edge or level tool.

  • If there are high spots: sand them down.

  • If there are low spots: use a floor leveling compound to make it smooth.

A flat subfloor stops squeaks and helps the floor last longer.

Look for Moisture or Damage

Moisture can make hardwood floors fail. Use a moisture meter to check the subfloor and hardwood planks.

  • For wood subfloors: moisture should be less than 12%.

  • For concrete subfloors: follow manufacturer limits — often less than 4% with a calcium chloride test.

If moisture is too high, stop and fix it before continuing.

Put Down Underlayment or Vapor Barrier (If Needed)

Depending on the floor type and subfloor, you might need an underlayment or moisture barrier:

  • Over concrete: use a vapor barrier or underlayment with moisture protection.

  • Over plywood or OSB: a rosin paper, felt underlayment, or foam pad is suggested.

Follow what the manufacturer says to avoid warranty problems and make sure it works well. Lay down the underlayment flat, without overlaps, and tape seams if needed.

Step 2: Plan Your Hardwood Layout

Choose Your Starting Wall

In most areas, lay hardwood planks parallel to the longest wall. This makes the space seem larger. In several rooms, consider how planks will go through doorways.

Use a chalk line to create a straight guide on your starting wall. This keeps your first rows straight and the rest tidy.

Prepare the Flooring

Before installing hardwood, let the planks adjust to the room’s temperature and humidity for 48 to 72 hours. Place boxes flat, open the ends for air circulation.

This helps the wood suit the environment, minimizing expansion or gaps later.

Test-Lay a Few Rows

Lay some boards out without fixing them to see your layout. This helps you:

  • Ensure the layout is even in the room

  • Avoid narrow planks by walls

  • Plan for vents or door frames

Use this step to mix boards from various boxes to blend colors and grains.

Stagger Seams & Avoid Patterns

For a natural look, stagger plank ends by 6 to 8 inches in each row. Avoid repeated lengths or patterns like “stair-step” or “H” shapes.

Pro tip: Change plank lengths and mix them across rows for a natural flow.

Calculate Material (Add Extra for Waste)

Measure your area (length × width) and add 10% for waste, errors, and future repairs.

For odd shapes or diagonal setups, increase waste to 12–15%.

Step 3: Choose Your Installation Method

Before starting, pick an installation method for your hardwood floor and subfloor. Each method needs different tools and techniques.

Nail-Down Installation (Common for Solid Hardwood)

Great for solid hardwood on wooden subfloors. Use a nailer or stapler to attach each board.

  • Best for: Solid hardwood over wood subfloors

  • Tools needed: Flooring nailer, mallet, air compressor

  • Pros: Very secure and long-lasting

  • DIY Difficulty: Moderate (needs precision and right tools)

Glue-Down Installation

Used for engineered hardwood on concrete. Apply adhesive to the floor and press boards down.

  • Best for: Engineered hardwood over concrete

  • Tools needed: Flooring adhesive, notched trowel, floor roller

  • Pros: Strong bond and low profile

  • DIY Difficulty: Moderate to high (messy and needs ventilation)

Floating Installation (Click-Lock)

Popular for DIYers with click-lock engineered hardwood. Planks lock and float over underlayment.

  • Best for: Click-lock engineered hardwood over any flat surface

  • Tools needed: Spacers, tapping block, underlayment

  • Pros: Fast, clean, easy for beginners

  • DIY Difficulty: Easy

Pro Tip: For solid hardwood on wooden subfloors, nail-down works best. For engineered hardwood, floating floors are simpler for DIYers.

Step 4: Mark Guidelines and Snap Chalk Lines

Before you begin, draw a straight line for floor installation guidance.

Snap a Chalk Line Along Your Starting Wall
Identify your starting wall, often the longest or most visible. Measure the board width (including the gap) and create a parallel chalk line. This helps with your first row.

Use the Line to Keep Rows Straight
Line up each board with the chalk line as you proceed. This ensures the floor stays straight and doesn’t drift or bend.

Leave a 1/2″ Expansion Gap Around the Perimeter
Wood reacts to humidity changes. Use spacers for a 1/2-inch gap between the wood and walls, door frames, and obstacles. This avoids buckling.

Step 5: Lay the First Row of Planks

Trim Door Jambs if Needed
Check if the first plank needs to go under door frames or trim. Use a saw to trim the bottom of door jambs so planks fit underneath without gaps.

Start with Groove Side Facing the Wall
Place the first plank with the groove side towards the wall, so the next row clicks or locks easily. Start on the longest, straight wall for a nice alignment.

Secure the First Row
Depending on your installation method:

  • Nail-down: Use a flooring nailer to secure the boards through the tongue side.

  • Glue-down: Spread adhesive with a trowel and press each plank firmly.

  • Floating (click-lock): Angle the second plank into the first and click to lock.

Make sure planks are tight against each other without gaps.

Use Spacers to Maintain Expansion Gaps
Place 1/2″ spacers between the planks and the wall. This gap lets the hardwood expand and contract naturally, stopping buckling over time.

Step 6: Install the Remaining Flooring

Start with the first row, then continue adding hardwood planks one row at a time.

Stagger the End Joints for Strength
Make the floor strong by staggering the ends of the planks at least 6 inches apart. This keeps it stable and natural-looking.

Use a Tapping Block for a Snug Fit
Put a tapping block on the edge of each plank and gently tap with a mallet to close any gaps. This keeps the boards tight and safe.

Secure Boards Using Your Method

  • Nail-down: Use nails through the tongue at a 45° angle every 6–8 inches.

  • Glue-down: Spread adhesive evenly and press planks firmly.

  • Floating floor: Connect boards end-to-end and side-to-side.

Check for Level Often
Use a level every few rows to make sure the floor stays flat. Adjust as needed to avoid problems later.

Step 7: Cut Boards to Fit Edges and Corners

When near walls or items in the room, trim the last planks to fit properly.

Measure and Mark Carefully
Use a tape measure for the remaining space, then subtract 1/2″ for a gap. Mark the plank with a pencil or chalk.

Use the Right Saw for the Job

  • Miter saw: Ideal for straight cuts.

  • Jigsaw: Perfect for curved cuts around vents, doors, or unusual shapes.

Always cut on a stable surface and wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from dust and debris.

Maintain Expansion Gaps
Keep a 1/2″ gap between the floor and vertical surfaces like walls, pipes, and cabinets. This allows the hardwood to expand and contract naturally.

Step 8: Reinstall Baseboards and Transition Strips

Reattach Baseboards and Shoe Molding
Once the hardwood is down, make things neat by putting back the baseboards and shoe molding.

Install Transition Strips
Put transition strips where hardwood meets other floors. Choose T-moldings, reducers, or threshold pieces depending on the height and type of floors.

Leave Room for Movement
When adding trim, don’t fix it to the hardwood. This lets the floor shift as needed. Attach the trim to the wall or subfloor instead.

Step 9: Clean and Inspect Your Floor

After setting up the hardwood floor, clean and check it to ensure it’s ready.

Sweep and Vacuum Well
Use a broom or vacuum with a soft brush to remove sawdust and wood bits. This clears the floor and avoids scratches during checking or furnishing.

Check for Problems
Look for gaps, uneven boards, or noises when walking. Use a tapping block to fix misaligned boards or follow the guide for corrections.

Allow the Floor to Settle
If glue was used, wait 24–48 hours before putting furniture or rugs to let the glue set fully.

Pro Tips for a Successful Hardwood Installation

Getting hardwood floors right requires preparation and care. These tips make it easier:

  • Check for moisture with a meter before starting to prevent issues like cupping.

  • Use knee pads to protect your knees and ensure good airflow if using glue.

  • Check alignment every few rows to keep planks straight.

  • Work in small sections to maintain quality instead of rushing.

  • Be careful with cuts. Clean cuts ensure tight seams and a professional look.

Common Mistakes to Avoid When Installing Hardwood

Even experienced people can face issues if they don’t avoid these mistakes:

  • Skipping the acclimation period may cause the wood to change size later.

  • Ignoring subfloor moisture and flatness leads to noise or gaps.

  • Not staggering seams reduces strength and makes the floor uneven.

  • Nailing too close to the edge can cause splits.

  • Not using spacers leaves no room for wood to expand, leading to buckling.

DIY vs. Professional Hardwood Installation

Installing hardwood floors yourself can be cheaper, but it’s not for everyone. Here’s how to decide if you should DIY or hire a pro.

DIY Pros:

  • Costs less overall

  • You control the timing

  • Pride in doing it yourself

DIY Cons:

  • Takes time and effort

  • Needs planning and tools

  • Mistakes can be costly

Professional Installation Pros:

  • Quick and expert work

  • Includes prep and cleanup

  • Often with a warranty

Professional Installation Cons:

  • Higher labor cost

  • Less control over timing

📊 Comparison Table

Tool / MaterialSolid Hardwood (Nail-Down)Engineered Hardwood (Glue-Down)Engineered Hardwood (Floating/Click-Lock)Purpose
Tape Measure✔✔✔Measure layout and planks
Chalk Line✔✔✔Mark layout lines
Pry Bar✔✔✔Remove old flooring/baseboards
Moisture Meter✔✔✔Check subfloor moisture
Level✔✔✔Ensure even subfloor
SpacersOptional✔✔Maintain expansion gap at walls
Flooring Nailer / Stapler✔✘✘Secure solid planks to subfloor
Flooring Adhesive✘✔✘Glue engineered wood to subfloor
Trowel (for adhesive)✘✔✘Spread adhesive evenly
Click-Lock Installation Kit✘✘✔Includes tapping block, pull bar, spacers
Miter Saw✔✔✔Make crosscuts on planks
Jigsaw / Oscillating Tool✔✔✔Trim around obstacles
Safety Glasses✔✔✔Eye protection while cutting
Knee Pads
FeatureDIY InstallationProfessional Installation
Average Cost per Sq Ft$3 – $8 (materials + tools)$7 – $18 (includes labor)
Best ForBudget-minded, handy homeownersBusy homeowners, big or tricky jobs
Time CommitmentSeveral days or weekends1–2 days (typical)
Risk of MistakesModerate to highLow
Tool Investment Required✔❌ (installer provides)
SatisfactionHigh (if done well)High (professional finish)

👉 For detailed costs and methods, see our Hardwood Flooring Cost Guide